Meet Kokumi: the flavorless flavor enhancer

Why some dishes taste "hearty" and others don't

What is kokumi?

The literal translation from Japanese is rich-flavor (koku-mi), often described as the feeling of roundness, depth, that mouth-coating satisfaction. In literature on the topic, they describe kokumi as “[…] enhancing continuity, thickness, and mouthfeel”¹.

Sensational headlines from Delish describe kokumi as “the sixth taste”² and The Wall Street Journal calls it “The Next Food Sensation”³.

It’s not a taste itself like sweet, sour, salty, or bitter, but rather a sensory enhancer that brings together all the other tastes to create a fuller, rounder flavor profile. It’s the reason why some dishes feel comforting and "complete" even with relatively few ingredients.

How does kokumi work?

We’ve established kokumi isn’t a taste, meaning it doesn’t bind to taste receptors on the tongue like salt or sugar would.

The mechanism behind kokumi lies in its interaction with calcium-sensing receptors (CaSR) on the tongue. Researchers have discovered that certain compounds, such as γ-glutamyl peptides, activate these receptors. When these receptors are stimulated, they send signals to the brain that enhance the perception of flavors already present in the food.

An 2012 account from Dr. Harold McGee at Ajinomoto (yes, the MSG-making company) in Tokyo describes kokumi enhanced foods: “The flavors seemed amplified and balanced, as if the volume control and had been turned up and an equalizer turned on. They also seemed somehow to cling to my mouth—a tactile feeling—and to last longer before fading away.”⁴

What foods contain kokumi?

Here’s a list of some kokumi-rich ingredients:

• Fermented Foods: Miso, soy sauce, and kimchi

• Aged Cheeses: Parmesan, Gouda, and Gruyere

• Seafood: Scallops, shrimp, and fish sauce

• Meats: Slow-cooked or braised meats

• Vegetables: Garlic, onion, mushrooms

• Beverages: Beer and certain fermented drinks

You’ll notice many ingredients listed are also naturally rich in umami. This overlap is because kokumi peptides often coexist with glutamates and other umami compounds in foods, especially those that are fermented, aged, or slow-cooked.

While MSG is useful for boosting savoriness, this explains why MSG alone isn’t hearty or rich. Kokumi peptides and glutamates work synergistically to create a more satisfying and complex flavor.

Practical implications for home cooking

While we don’t have access to the superpowered kokumi compounds Ajinomoto is cooking up, the principle behind kokumi still stands.

On flavor

To me, kokumi is really about layering flavors. Kokumi is not a single groundbreaking technique or ingredient, it’s a tool to understand what we already do. Whether it’s reducing a demi-glace or seasoning with soy sauce, kokumi connects these intuitive behaviors across all cuisines. Here’s a few ways I’m choosing to practice this ethos— it’s not just about adding more flavor, but enhancing and deepening what’s already there.

• Build a flavor foundation with alliums: Garlic, onions, and shallots are natural kokumi boosters. Whether you’re sweating shallots to build a meat sauce or simmering onions for a stock, use more alliums to develop that rounded, mouth-coating base.

• Lean on aged and fermented ingredients: Even small amounts of miso, soy sauce, aged cheese (like Parmesan rinds in broth), or a splash of fish sauce can create a deeper, more lingering flavor without overwhelming the dish.

• Slow down how you cook: Braising meats or simmering soups over low heat gives time for kokumi compounds to naturally develop, enhancing thickness and mouthfeel without needing heavy creams or fats. This works in tandem with many protein’s natural collagen and umami, creating a truly hearty sensation and taste.

On kokumi and health

In my research I came across a Forbes article titled “Instead Of Ozempic: ‘Kokumi’ Can Boost Umami And Naturally Restrain Your Appetite”⁵. Even flavor can’t escape America’s obsession with weight-loss. It alludes to a correlation between kokumi and obesity in American versus Japanese diets. The literature on kokumi’s health properties are extremely limited but one 2105 study found that kokumi-enhanced reduced-fat peanut butter was more satisfying than reduced-fat peanut butter alone. While there’s not enough evidence-based data to back up sensationalized headlines, this presents an interesting use case to make foods taste richer without increasing fat content. In my case, this could be promising for making a savory sorbet or adding richness without changing a sauce’s texture.

In conclusion

Kokumi may not be the "sixth taste" or an “ozempic replacement” (I apologize, this claim makes me cringe too), but it’s certainly a concept worth knowing. I’m choosing to view this as less of a food fad and more of a cooking philosophy that invites us to approach food with more intention.

In a world where we’re often seeking quick fixes or intense flavor bombs, kokumi invites us to appreciate the deeper, more satisfying qualities of food, those subtle notes that turn a simple meal into something comforting and complete.

Moreover, kokumi’s cultural ties to fermented, slow-cooked, and aged foods reflect a long-standing global tradition of creating food that nurtures the body and soul. From my 100-year old Sichuanese pickling tradition to Thai perpetual beef stew, these cooking methods connect us to traditions that are both old and profound, where the practice of flavor-building has been perfected over generations.

A new recipe from this week

I’m bringing a kokumi-rich Sichuanese pantry staple to the forefront on socials this week: Yibin yacai (宜宾芽菜). Check out my latest blog recipe for Mushroom “Rice” with Yacai Stir-Fry (junmiyacai 菌米芽菜), a plant-based adaptation of the craveable Sichuan classic Chicken “Rice” with Yacai (jimiyacai 鸡米芽菜).

1. Rhyu, Mee-Ra et al. “Kokumi Taste Active Peptides Modulate Salt and Umami Taste.” Nutrients vol. 12,4 1198. 24 Apr. 2020, doi:10.3390/nu12041198

2. Delicious Team. “What Is Kokumi: The New Sixth Taste Sensation Is Here.” delicious.com.au, 12 Sept. 2023, www.delicious.com.au/food-files/news-articles/article/kokumi-new-sixth-taste-sensation/7geze53p.

3. Dunn, Rob, and Monica Sanchez. “Is Kokumi the Next Taste Sensation?” The Wall Street Journal, 17 Apr. 2021, www.wsj.com/arts-culture/food-cooking/is-kokumi-the-next-taste-sensation-11618632271.

4. “Kokumi Experience Report by Dr. Harold McGee | Activity | Umami Information Center.” Umami Information Center, www.umamiinfo.com/topics/2013/01/-kokumi-experience-report-by-dr-harold-mcgee.html.

5. Katayama, Akiko. “Instead of Ozempic: ‘Kokumi’ Can Boost Umami and Naturally Restrain Your Appetite.” Forbes, 31 May 2024, www.forbes.com/sites/akikokatayama/2024/05/31/kokumi-can-boost-umami-and-naturally-restrain-your-appetite/.